Doors & windows · Install & repair
Door and window installation that's plumb, sealed and finished inside and out.
Interior, exterior and storm doors hung plumb and latching, replacement windows set in existing openings, and the flashing, sealing and trim finished so they stay that way. Doors that stick or won't latch, fixed at the cause. Priced in writing before we start. Based in Castle Rock, working from Boulder to Colorado Springs.
Fastest quote: text a photo of the door or window, with its width and height, to (303) 919-2274.
How a door or window job works
- Priced from photosA photo from each side plus the width and height price most jobs — repairs at a flat rate.
- One written priceThe door or window, hardware, trim, paint and haul-away itemized line by line.
- Measured before orderingSize, swing and wall depth confirmed on site before anything is ordered.
- Finished, not just hungSealed, trimmed and adjusted, with the old door or window hauled away.
Done properly
What a proper install includes.
A door or window that's a little out of plumb or poorly sealed shows it by the first winter — drafts, sticking, water at the sill. These are the steps we don't skip.
- Opening checked firstPlumb, level and square checked before anything comes out, so problems in the opening get fixed, not hidden behind new trim.
- Shimmed solidSolid shims at every hinge and the strike, and long screws through the hinges into the framing, so a door can't sag out of square.
- Flashed to shed waterExterior doors set over a sill pan or sealed sill, and flashing lapped around doors and windows so water runs out, not in.
- Sealed against draftsThe gap around the frame filled with low-expansion foam, and weatherstripping and sweeps that seal without binding.
- Hardware that lines upLocksets, deadbolts and strikes aligned so the door latches with a push and the deadbolt throws all the way.
- Trimmed and finishedCasing and exterior trim nailed, caulked and ready for paint — or painted to match — and the old unit hauled away.
What we install
Every door in the house, and the windows too.
Hinged, sliding and folding doors, inside and out, and replacement windows in existing openings — plus the repairs that keep the ones you have working.
Interior doors
Prehung doors and slab swaps for bedrooms, baths and closets, with new casing or the existing trim reused.
Exterior entry doors
Front, back and garage entry doors replaced in the existing opening, with the sill sealed, the trim finished and the lockset and deadbolt installed.
Storm and screen doors
Storm doors fitted tight to the frame, with the closer and wind chain adjusted for Front Range gusts.
Closet, bifold and barn doors
Bifold and bypass doors that stay on their tracks, and sliding barn doors hung level on solid backing.
Replacement windows
Insert or full-frame replacements in existing openings, flashed and sealed, with the interior and exterior trim finished.
Repairs and adjustments
Sticking and drafty doors, sliding patio door rollers and tracks, handles, locks and weatherstripping.
How it works
From photos to finished trim.
Repairs are usually priced from photos. Replacements are measured on site before anything is ordered.
- 01
Send photos
The door or window from both sides, plus its width and height — and the product link if you've already picked one.
- 02
Written price
Repairs at a flat rate; replacements priced per door or window, with hardware, trim, paint and haul-away itemized.
- 03
Measured, then ordered
Size, swing and wall depth confirmed before anything is ordered — or the one you bought checked before install day.
- 04
Installed and finished
Set, sealed, trimmed and adjusted, the old unit hauled away and the area cleaned up.
On the same visit
Paint, trim and the rest of the list.
A new door or window usually means new trim to paint, and there's always something else on the list. Add it to the same visit.
Often booked together
- New doors painted to match the trim
- Casing and baseboards replaced to match
- Drywall patched where the old frame came out
- Weatherstripping on every exterior door
- Door stops added and the dents behind them fixed
Front Range know-how
Why doors stick here — and the fix.
Clay soils that swell and shrink, houses that settle, dry winters and wet springs: Front Range doors move with the seasons. Most sticking doors can be fixed without replacing them.
Common fixes
- Loose hinge screws replaced with long screws into the framing
- Hinges shimmed or adjusted to square the door in its frame
- Strike plates moved so the latch catches
- Rubbing edges planed and sealed again
- Weatherstripping, sweeps and thresholds adjusted or replaced
- Bifold, bypass and patio door tracks cleaned and realigned
Several doors sticking at once, or new cracks above doors and windows, can point to foundation movement — worth a structural engineer's look before we fix the symptoms.
Questions
Door and window questions.
How much does door installation cost?
Repairs are flat-rate: a door that sticks, rubs or won't latch is a single task, and single tasks start at $65. Several doors, or doors plus other repairs, often fit a half-day visit at $300–$400. Replacements are priced per door or window, in writing, with the unit, hardware, trim, paint and haul-away itemized.
Can you fix a sticking door instead of replacing it?
Usually. Most sticking, rubbing or unlatched doors come down to loose hinge screws, a shifted strike or swollen edges, and they're fixed in place — often in under an hour. If the frame itself has moved, we'll tell you what it'll take before we start.
Prehung door or slab — which do I need?
A slab is just the door; a prehung door comes hung in a new frame. A slab keeps your frame and trim but has to be drilled and mortised to match it. Prehung is the right call when the frame is damaged or out of square, or the swing is changing. Photos usually tell us which.
Can you install a door or window I already bought?
Yes. Send the product details first and we'll check the size, swing and wall depth against your opening before install day, so nothing goes back to the store at the last minute.
Insert or full-frame window replacement?
An insert window fits inside the existing frame, so the interior trim and siding stay put — quicker and less disruptive. Full-frame replacement takes the window out to the rough opening, so soft wood can be repaired and the flashing redone. If water has gotten in, full-frame is usually worth it; we'll check on the walkthrough.
What about the door between the garage and the house?
It's a fire separation, so it has to be a solid-core, steel or fire-rated door, and many codes require it to close and latch on its own. We'll replace it with one that meets the rule.
My home was built before 1978. Does that matter?
It can — and we're set up for it. Replacing a door or window in a home built before 1978 disturbs painted surfaces, and EPA lead-safe rules cover window replacement however small the job. We're EPA RRP certified, so the work area is contained, dust is controlled and the cleanup is verified before we leave. Tell us the year your home was built when you send photos.
Where do you install doors and windows?
From Boulder to Colorado Springs. Douglas County and the south metro are home base, with no travel charge. Farther out — across the Denver metro, north to Boulder and south to Colorado Springs — travel is built into your written price, never added afterward. See every town we cover.
Send a photo of the door or window.
Add the width and height — or the product link if you've picked one. You'll have a written price, usually within 24 hours.